MILAN FASHION PHOTOS: Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana conceal and reveal, balance transparency with cover

MILAN (AP) — While the fashion industry discusses size diversity from time to time, there was little evidence of real evolution on the Milan runway this season.

On Saturday, Paloma Elsasser walked Ferragamo in a satin plunge-neck cocktail dress, and Dolce&Gabbana included models of normal size. But the thinness of some models was a topic of pre-show chatter.

Ashley Graham, who sat in the front row of Dolce&Gabbana, as recently as the September shows, lamented how often she is the only larger model on runways.

Some highlights from the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week, mostly womenswear previews for fall-winter 2024-25.

FERRAGAMO’S FREE SPIRIT

Maximilian Davis’ Ferragamo collection both conceals and reveals, with oversized masculine woolen overcoats covering wispy, transparent embroidered dresses. It is the freedom to choose who sees what.

The designer, in his third winter seasons at the Florence-based family-run fashion house, took inspiration from the 1920s Prohibition era, when a U.S. booze ban drove revelers underground.

“People were using clothing as a way to kind of hide what they were doing, as a massive celebration of freedom,” Davis said backstage. “They were going to speakeasies and they didn’t want (anyone) to be seeing what they were wearing.’’

Wool coats have broad shoulders and masculine silhouettes in the style of Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo. Underneath, dresses of scalloped sequins and draped fringe recall flapper looks with contemporary discipline. Looks without pants were paired with woolen tights for full-cover, while hip boots rose the hemline of knit mini-dresses. Footwear included heels fully concealed beneath a flurry of feathers.

Davis covered men head to toe in leather, from thigh-high fishermen boots to gloves, or freed them to...